So you’re thinking of handing over your hard-earned cash for an excellent pair of quality, handmade Chelsea boots; good for you. This nearly 200-year-old style is a great addition to any stylish gent’s wardrobe; they’re versatile, they’re reliable, and most of all they look amazing dressed up or down. But you want to be informed before you make a significant investment into your style. These five tips will get you there.

1. Fit: Snug, not tight.

The Chelsea is sleek, streamlines, and—oh yeah—completely lace less. Their structure allows them to easily be interchangeable with dress shoes but without laces once doesn’t have a means to tightening the boot when wearing. That’s why it’s important to pick a boot that has a snug fit around the ankle. The elastic will eventually stretch to fit your leg, making them easier to put on wear after wear. However you don’t want to get a pair that’s too tight. Try them on with a pair of heavy socks for a comfortable fit.

2. Don’t go chunky.

Unless you want to look like a flamenco dancer, stay away from the chunky and tall heels. For a more classic look, go for a thinner sole. The beauty of these boots is in their minimalism.

3. Choose high quality materials.

We already established that you’re investing in a pair of handmade Italian leather Chelsea boots—so there’s no need to convince you of the benefits of quality calfskin. But have you thought about the quality of the elastic? Well you should. The quality of the elastic fasting determines the life of your Chelsea boots.

4. Get the right pair for your feet.

It sounds obvious, but it’s important to try on a few different pairs in order to see what feels the most natural. Even though the shapes all look the same on the outside, these are handcrafted and each cobbler is going to have a slightly different shoe mold. If you have larger feet, look for a pair of rounded toe boots. If your feet are small a pair with pointed toes can help elongate the foot.

5. Leather or suede?

Suede Chelsea boots are popular, but like all suede shoes they are delicate and prone to stains and blemishes. If you’re thinking of wearing this in the winter, go for a pair of leather Chelsea boots. They are easier to care for and last much longer than suede styles.